What are ‘necks’ on hat blocks for?

2023-03-14 by owenmb

What are ‘necks’ on hat blocks for?

I notice that some hat blocks have ‘necks’. Why is that and what are they for?

Some of the smaller perching beret hat blocks and some cloche blocks have a hollowed underside to allow you to block the material and then fold up inside the hollow and pin to allow you to create a neat finish to your bottom edge.

An alternative to the hollowed base on hat blocks is the American-style block with a ‘neck’. When using the FB1A block (pictured below) tie string into the small groove at the base of the shape. Once blocked and dry you can then sew the ribbon just below the fold line. On smaller button hat blocks of this style sewing the ribbon at this stage is much simpler and less fiddly.

After sewing the ribbon in place you can now flip the ‘neck’ inside. This is a good option where the size of the block does not allow the base to be hollowed easily but is also a great technique on any similar shape of any size.

The CB294F below is a puzzle block to help you remove the blocked hat easily, as the block dismantles inside the blocked hat. It’s worth noting that if you are blocking this shape in felt and tucking under, we recommend you request the size 2cm / 3/4″ larger than the head size to allow for this.

Telescopic and Puzzle Blocks with ‘necks’

You will also see plenty of vintage 3D / telescopic puzzle blocks that have a ‘neck’. Note that on these style blocks the size is measured around the neck at the bottom, when the felt is folded inside, this is the head fitting.

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat-making courses around the world and available teachers.

Does my hat block need a string groove?

2022-08-17 by owenmb

Does my hat block need a string groove?

I notice that some hat blocks have string grooves/rope lines and some don’t. How do I know if my hat block needs one or not?

String grooves are sometimes referred to as rope lines. Whether a block has a string groove or not is often down to preferred methods and techniques of working. Nowadays string grooves are seen more frequently and offered as an extra. Sometimes they are included as a standard with the block maker. There are some things to consider when deciding if your hat block needs a string goove.

When are string grooves useful?

They are particularly useful and time efficient when blocking large brims and saucer-style hats. As with a lot of millinery techniques, pinning the bigger brims is very time-consuming. By tying blocking string/cord into a string groove and securing it with a pin you can save both your time and your stash of pins.

Take a look at this picture on the left. Take your saucer blocks and cover it with sinamay. Once you’ve got the material over the shape of the block tie the string firmly into the string groove. Next, secure the string with a few pins. Finally, if the block has a presser like the one pictured, put that in place with weights on top and leave it to dry.

Picture of a blocked saucer with kind permission from Louise Claire Millinery

Why do some hat blocks have multiple string grooves?

Some vintage hat blocks, particularly the complex puzzle blocks have multiple string grooves. In this case, the grooves allow the dried felt to be folded and manipulated and sometimes collapsed concertina style into the finished shape. After removing the blocked felt from the puzzle blocks the lines would either serve as a folding guide or leave a marked feature in the material.

Some 3D blocks also have more than one string groove. The CB191F pictured has a small groove at the bottom of the main shape followed by a ‘gap’ and then a standard string groove. If you tie into both grooves and cut off at the lower one, the resulting neck will flip up inside the top section of the hat and disappear from sight. You can even sew on your ribbon before flipping it up inside, which is very convenient!

Some hat blocks have string grooves included as standard, if you’re unsure ask us!

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat-making courses around the world and available teachers.

You can find blocking string in our webshop:

Blocking String

£2.50

Great for string grooves and crown bases. 2mm diameter and sold in 5 metre lengths.

Ex VAT £2.50

If you are not ordering blocks as well, this product can be purchased by clicking “add to cart”. Otherwise, please click “add to quote” to add it to your block quote.

Add to quote

How do you use a milliner’s ribbon board?

2022-07-142022-02-28 by owenmb

How do you use a milliner’s ribbon board?

A ribbon board is a must-have piece of equipment for the millinery workroom. It is primarily used for shaping Petersham ribbon or bias fabric so that it will fit round the edge of a brim without wrinkling. This allows you to make perfect bindings for your hats every time! In this blog post you will learn how to use a milliner’s ribbon board.

In the video below, you will see milliner Cristina de Prada demonstrate this technique for you. Check out Cristina de Prada on Instagram and Facebook.

Instructions on how to use the milliner’s ribbon board.

Firstly make a small cut along the centre of the ribbon (about a centimetre long). Secondly, spray the ribbon with water to dampen it. Once wet, secure the ribbon over the edge of the ribbon board and pin it into place with two pins angled towards the centre of the board.

Next, wrap the ribbon around the edge of the board continuously. Make the ribbon taut as you go around until your required length is formed. Then secure the end with pins as before. You should allow a little extra length so that you can cut off the two ends marked by the pins.

Lastly, when the ribbons are dry unpin and the binding from the board. Now you’re ready to sew your binding on your hat brim. The easiest way to hold the board is on your lap while seated.

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat making courses around the world and available teachers.

Corset stays in hat making?

2021-10-162021-08-13 by owenmb

When are corset stays used in hat making?

It could be hard to make the connection if you have never tried to take a blocked crown or brim off a hat block after stiffening and drying!

A corset stay (the type which looks like a flattened wire spring) is ideal for removing blocked hats off their blocks. They have smooth ends hammered onto them which will not damage the hat fabric. Such stays bend in all directions yet remain stiff. Firstly insert the corset stay between the cling film covering the block and the hat fabric. Then, move it up and down to loosen the material and enable you to take your blocked shape off without damaging it. Very helpful indeed!

Here is a corset stay in use with a felt cloche hat. Notice the corset stay pushing up beyond the ‘waist’ of the felt cloche. Work your way around the block, pushing the corset stay up as high as it can go.

Here is a corset stay in use with a sinamay crown. You can see the corset stay through the sinamay. Push it up and down around the sides of the crown, preparatory to pulling the crown off the block.

Blocking your fabric onto the block makes it as close to the block as possible. The cling film between the fabric and your wooden block prevents it from being stuck permanently to the block! When you insert the end of the corset stay between the hat fabric and the cling film, you will loosen the hold created by the blocking and stiffening.

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat making courses around the world and available teachers.

CS1 – Millinery Knife/Corset Stay

£6.25

A corset stay – the type which looks like a flattened wire spring – is ideal for taking a blocked crown or brim off a hat block after stiffening and drying! They have smooth ends, which will not damage the hat fabric. Corset stays bend in all directions yet remain stiff. This means that they can be inserted between the cling film covering the block and the hat fabric and moved up and down to loosen it and enable you to take your blocked shape off without damaging it. (Approximate length 30cm). Very helpful indeed!

Ex VAT £6.25

If you are not ordering blocks as well, this product can be purchased by clicking “add to cart”. Otherwise, please click “add to quote” to add it to your block quote.

Add to quote

What are Dolly Heads for? Are they like Poupees?

2021-08-132021-06-17 by owenmb

I am often asked what are Dolly Heads for? A dolly head is a wooden version of the stylized canvas-covered papier-mache poupee. Typically you can use a dolly head to create draped forms. This is because it imitates the human head shape. It is a great tool for the milliner. Used in almost every process of hat and headpiece making, it is essential for the positioning of headpiece construction as well as for trimming and fitting veils.

Essentially a milliner designs, drapes and blocks on the dolly head with felt, straw, and foundation materials. Sometimes known as utility blocks they are great for blocking cloches, turbans, fascinator bases in all materials, lacework, supporting a hat or fascinator during trimming, adjusting size, and even for display purposes.

As mentioned a Dolly Head is great for hand draping felt cloche hats and you can see a full tutorial from HATalk on this here.

You can also find a step-by-step HATalk project showing you how to create a retro bridal veil as pictured below:

In our workshop, we make them from lime and balsa wood. Lime will last longer but Balsa is sometimes the preferred alternative because of its self-healing properties. However, heavy use over time will mean its shelf life is shorter than that of its lime version.

Simple Dolly Head

Our simplest Dolly Head is the DH2 this block gives you the basic human head shape and the eyes are marked for placement purposes.

Featureless Dolly Head

DH4 (Lime) and DH5 (Balsa) have a featureless face but a sloping forehead and a rounded back and good nape of the neck, great for close-fitting cloche hats.

Fully Featured Dolly Head

The DH3 is a fully-featured version with eyebrows, nose and chin.

Which size Dolly Head should I buy?

We make Dolly heads to fit specific head sizes. If you’re looking for an average female head size then we would recommend 22.5″ / 57cm. With all the different options available, choose which features are important to you. Then decide which material you would prefer to work with (lime or balsa).

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat-making courses around the world and available teachers.