hat blocks

How do I get my material to take the shape of dimples in the hat block?

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I have a fedora-style hat block with dimples already carved into the block. How do I get my material to take the shape of dimples in the hat block?

Get your material to take the shape of the fedora dimples in your hat block by considering the following. When tackling shaped fedora or trilby blocks with dimples, then it’s adimples in fedora crown block good idea to block on a surface which is slightly lower than normal so you can add your body weight to the process!

This is particularly useful if you’re using heavier men’s felts or wool felts (which are trickier to block). You are also going to need plenty of steam, this will be key to your success.

At the first stage, once your material is most with steam and very hot push the felt down over the crown and persuade it into the dimples with firm strokes of your hands and then pin the material into the base of the crown block as usual. If blocking a fedora in one piece you will have pushed the blocked crown through the brim and pinned it.

Check the material, whether straw or felt, to see that it hasn’t dried out and if necessary, apply more steam.

Blocking dimples in shaped hat blocks

Roll up some scraps of cotton fabric into a rolled shape to fit the dimples. Press the roll into the dimple, load the pin pusher and pin through the fabric and straw into the block. Pin at either end, then in several places along the dimple, so that the fabric is held firmly in place against the block.

If the fabric tends to rise up the pin, allowing the straw to lift off the block, pin at an angle as shown. Use enough pins to hold the straw evenly against the block. Leave it to dry.

This technique works best with straw capelines. If you’re using felt then read on…

Another great way to get your material to take the shape of fedora dimples

If your budget allows you could invest in an egg iron. Simply warm the egg in a flame or on a hot plate such as your kitchen hob or portable stove and away you go! You’ll find it invaluable for use with fedora dimples and valleys, but the pointed end will also fit well into sharper valleys found in pork pie styles. We made a short demo video of the egg iron in use:

 

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat-making courses around the world and available teachers.

Get your material to take the shape of the fedora dimples in your hat block easily with the help of our egg iron. You can find egg irons here:

Stainless Steel Egg Iron

£80.00

An egg iron is used for helping to shape and smooth felt into hollow areas of a block such as a trilby or fedora. Our egg irons are of superior quality being made of stainless steel that will not rust or corrode, giving you years of trouble and maintenance free service. Simply warm the egg in a flame such as your kitchen hob or portable stove and away you go. You’ll find it invaluable for use with trilby dimples and valleys but the pointed end (which isn’t sharp) will also fit well into sharper valleys such as pork pies.

STAINLESS STEEL MEANS RUST FREE – NO MORE MARKS ON YOUR FELT. NOT YOUR AVERAGE EGG IRON!

Ex VAT £80

If you are not ordering blocks as well, this product can be purchased by clicking “add to cart”. Otherwise, please click “add to quote” to add it to your block quote.

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Can I make a hat bigger than the head size of my hat blocks?

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Can I make a hat bigger than the head size of my hat blocks?

Sometimes you get asked to make a hat for a head that is bigger than the blocks you own. To make hats in a larger size is possible. You can do this by ‘double blocking’.

Double Blocking a Crown Block

Firstly, you need either an old felt capeline or an old felt hat with a wide brim. If using an old felt hat, strip off any trimming, inner headbands, and wiring. TIP: If it’s marked with glue patches then turn it inside out before proceeding.

Next, get the crown block you’re going to use and cover with clingfilm/saran wrap just as you would if blocking a hat.

Take the old hat or felt capeline and block it over the prepared block. Leave it to dry and trim off the excess felt. Before removing it from the block mark the felt Centre Front (CF) and Back CB) with a Chinagraph pencil and a block reference.

If you want to make the block larger still mark the first felt #1 and cover with clingfilm/saran wrap as before. Now block another old felt capeline or hat over the top and allow it to dry. Trim any excess off as before and mark CF and CB as above and #2 to remind you.

You can do this up to three times, but the definition of the shape gets lost, depending on how much shape and what features are already in the block. Also, the padding becomes too thick to hold pins in the wooden block beneath, during blocking. We wouldn’t recommend using this technique on trilby or fedora crowns with dimples for this reason.

Finally, block your new capeline over the clingfilm/saran wrap covered padded block in the usual way.

**The felts you have may vary in thickness but as a useful guide for every 1mm thickness of felt padding, you will add ¼” to the head size.**

Double Blocking a Down-turned Brim Block

To increase the size of a down-turned brim block you can use a larger collar size than your brim. Fix the larger collar to the brim, cover in clingfilm/saran wrap and block as usual.

Brim Collar CO1
Brim Collar CO1

How do I increase the size of an Up-turned Brim Block?

You cannot make an up-turned brim block bigger in head size. You can overcome this by stretching the brim after you have taken it off the block. Dampen the fabric at the headband and stretch it gently over a collar of the required size, or you can use a graded Stretcher Block if you have one.

Stretcher Block SB1
Stretcher Block SB1

We’ll be answering more of your questions soon, in the meantime if you’re looking for inspiration and millinery projects why not head over to HATalk? With this code GMB20 claim 20% off a new HATalk Subscription.

If you’re hoping to delve deeper and improve your skills then check out Hatcourses.com – which houses a list of millinery and hat making courses around the world and available teachers.