Blocking in one

If you don’t know about blocking-in-one with an upturned brim then you need to!

It’s an easy and efficient way to work as you will see in the video below.

Let us know the style of hat you want to make and we'll advise you on which blocks to buy.

 

A great method for making trilby/fedora hats:

Hat made with CB141 & BB55

Owen Morse-Brown

CB141 is a favourite block of mine and after a few hats, this one is my best so far! I love the deep dimples and well defined ridges and the design comes from an original block from the early 20th century.

It's a very simple blocking process which I'll briefly describe. First the felt is steamed and stretched over the crown and a tipper is used to shape the top. The felt for the brim is pressed flat onto the table with the corner between crown and brim being held tight with string. You can iron the brim gently to get it nice and flat. At this stage you can make the felt look a little nicer by gently sanding it all over with 320 grit sandpaper - all in the same direction. By now, the crown is complete and you can trim the brim to width using our brim cutting wheels (see below). I chose 1 1/2" but you can go up to 2 1/2" with the BB55. The little video below shows the brim being cut.

At this stage you can sew in the sweatband and prepare the ribbon if you like. That leaves only the brim shaping to be done.

Place the hat upside down inside the brim (the brim must be on a stand or have its own brim legs) and then tie a cotton sheet over using the string groove. Pull it nice and tight, spray lightly with water and iron - not too hot. Leave to dry and remove.

A little steam across the front allows you to bend the front of the brim down to complete the shape. Attach the ribbon and you're done.

Alternatively, instead of using the cutting wheel, the brim can be shaped on the block and the felt tied into the string groove. After it is dry you can cut the excess off with scissors, but the brim cutting wheels do allow you to cut a very smooth and clean edge. They also allow a few different brim widths to be achieved from the same brim block as the shaping is done after cutting.

Brim Legs

BB45 with Brim legs

£30.00

Brim legs are useful when blocking in one (one piece of felt for crown and brim together). The legs mean that the brim is supported off your work surface leaving enough room for the blocked crown to be pushed through to the desired height. This is a very effective and quick way to work leaving you less sewing to do later. Brims generally need to be 3/4″ bigger than the crown and legs need to be ordered at the same time as the brim so we can attach them securely. The picture shows a BB45 with legs.

Ex VAT £25.00

Brim Stand

brimstand

£69.00

A brim stand saves you from needing to buy a set of brim legs with every upturned brim. Fits our brims only although can be made to other requirements. Please note that our brims do not have stand holes as standard so if you are ordering further brims, please mention that you need the stand holes adding.

Ex VAT £57.50

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Brim Cutting Wheels

brim-cutting-wheels

£98.00

This is our version of a brim cutter which is used for neatly cutting a flat felt brim to width. The set includes 17 wheels allowing you to cut widths from 1 to 5 inches in 1/4″ increments. For best results work on a cutting mat or board. The wheel is laid on the felt width it’s edge against the base of the crown and the small central wheel is placed in the centre and a scalpel (not included) is inserted in the slot and pressed down into the cutting mat or board. Keeping a little pressure against the side of the crown, the crown is rotated once to cut the felt off to width.

Ex Vat £81.66

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